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Showing posts from 2018

Honda Racing wheel guide

I managed to source a rear wheel guide that has been used on the Honda TT and EWC bike for many years.

Its design is simple and intended to ease swift wheel changes.

These were used on OZ wheels but the Marchesini share the same sprockets so hopefully will fit fine on my bike.

Some General updates (Cylinder head and Dash)

I finally got around to contacting JHS Racing regarding the cylinder head I bought a while back.
The advised me that it had Carillo rods and Kent regrinded cams.
Having contacted JHS Racing, the gave some more information. It appears it was one of five tuned by them and featured HRC Cams and Wiseco pistons. Sadly they could not provide me with any further information.
I took the opportunity to remove the stock studs and replace them with titanium versions which having looked at the old ones were starting to see corrosion on the ends.
I also popped in the chain guide as well just for good measure.
While I was working on things, I updated the HM Dash to version 7M. I am not sure what the difference is but like to keep things up to date.

2017 fairing bolts compatible with HRC kit 2008-2016

One of the omissions of the HRC manual for 08-16 was fairing bolts. 

The HRC Clock bracket was built with M6 holes to hold on fairings compaired to others who opted for DZUS.

The 2017/2018 HRC manual has corrected this and lists p/n 90106-NF4-770 on the clock bracket these are slotted and posidrive style screws rather than DZUS.

These will therefore fit the 08-16 fireblades.

Gasket set completed

I have been after the last two head gaskets for the bike and finally got my hands on them.

These will complement the ported cylinder head I have stored away and the HRC Cams. I have also sourced a variety of titanium parts to complement the head too.

Homemade HRC usb cable for the CBR1000RR

I stumbled across this site as I was doing my research,

Whilst I have the genuine HRC usb cable, they have a hefty price tag making the use of a HRC ecu an expensive option to program.

This site dscribes how to use a VAG OBD cable with a diy plug to connect to the diagnostic port of the bike.

Take a look at the site here

Woolich Racing failure at first hurdle

As many know, I have a bit of an obsession with all thing Honda and HRC related.

I have all the kit to equip the bike with an ECU (Loom, ECU, usb plug and software) but was interested in exploring a bit more about the Woolich racing ecu flash.

The Woolich racing ecu flash sounds a great idea in principle. I have a PCV and SFM from Power Commander which add weight and draw volts from the bike (which I want to reduce so I can use the kit generator). The Woolich Racing flash allows access to built in maps like the PCV and the HRC ecu so sounds a great solution to me in road setup.

I managed to get the whole setup used from someone parting out their bike so I got it quite cheap compared to full price and its been sat around for a while.

Well I decided to try the setup and before I could even get going, plugged the micro USB plug in. As I did this, the cable fell out. I found the soldered USB connector on the V3 Log box had come off the mother board.

I wss surprised at this and with the power o…

Boot protectors and started the bike up (Turn up the sound :-) )

I managed to spend some tome working on the bike. I finally got around to fitting the boot protectors. They complememt the colour scheme nicely.

I also completed the tool chest which of course had to be orange!

Click here to see the video

Honda Racing Chain hook

I finally got around to copying the original chain hook used by Honda Racing on their BSB and TT bikes.

Its a simple idea but dead handy.

HRC Clock Bracket

It has been a quiet month or so but finally got my hands on a genuine kit clock bracket.

I have also sourced the last two engine remaining gaskets so that I can consider what setup I use.

I still have a few bits to source such as the kit inner inlet valve springs but closer to complete.

Keyless ignition

The fireblade in the UK comes with HISS as standard. This is basically a chip in the key that reduces the risk of theft without the key.

Whilst this is a fine system for most road bikes, if you want a track or custom bike it presents a few problems.

I will briefly cover the options available.

USA loom and ECU

In America, HISS is not standard on bikes so an option would be to swap the looms so it would be simple enough to avoid the issue. the downside is that we have pass to flash and hazards wired into the loom and the USA ECU can be restricted on power. You simply replace the key with a switch or buy a key delete loom from Woodcraft.

I am told that the australian blade is similare to the UK but no HISS so this may also be an issue but have not explored this.

HRC Loom and HRC ECU

This would seem the perfect solution for track days but if you want to use the bike as a custom road bike, lose features such as fans, indicators and headlights.

Modified UK Loom and the rest

I have seen many other so…

Programming a Honda Hiss key

This isn't my normal post but found this page quite useful if you ever need to replace a physically broken key and programme a replacement.

Method is...  (with your new cut keys)

1. Disconnect the 2 pin wiring from the CKP sensor.
2. Connect the special wiring loom.
3. Connect the positive and negative leads to the battery.
4. Using original Key, turn the ignition on.
5. Disconnect the positive battery connector for 5 seconds then reattach.
6.  The HISS light (if you have one) should come on for 2 seconds and flash 4 times.
7. Turn off ignition and remove original key. Move well away from the HISS sensor.
8. Inset the new key and turn on the ignition. The HISS light will come on for 4 seconds and then flash 4 times. This means a the new key is registered.
9. Turn off ignition, and repeat for each new key.
10. Turn off ignition, remove special wiring loom and reconnect CKP sensor.

Here is the link

RCV1000 body kit for the CBR1000RR

As you may have seen, my bike started off life as a 2009 Repsol Fireblade. Over time, I have swapped the fairings to the 2015 Repsol design which I have to admit really like.

Now the 2017 and 2018 bike is out, its possible to do the same and convert the 2009 bike to the look of the 2017 blade. 

Instead of this, another option is the RCV1000 replica. Sebi Moto have created a set of RCV1000 replica fairings for the fireblade. so you can get the Motogp look for a lot less. 

MetalScorpio has embarked on this concept and the bike looks stunning.

What is the RCV1000?

Well put simply, MotoGP thought it was a good idea to introduce an affordable race bike series using a common engine, That engine came from the 2008 CBR1000RR and tweaked by Ten Kate.

Click here for more information

HRC Quick release spindles

This is one of the last parts of the QR kit I needed for the bike. This differs from the usual used or third party ones as these are genuine HRC and intended for stock forks and wheels.

If you have spent any time working on the blades, they have a spindle with a bolt on the end. Whilst this clearly meets the needs, my HRC Swingarm has the Quick release kit on the rear. It seems daft to only do 59% of the conversion, so the front had to be converted.

Whilst this is no doubt very cool to have on the bike, my current setup uses titanium spindles. These are steel and heavy. My aim will be to get titanium replicas made up to keep the weight down.

HRC CBR1000RR Gaskets needed

I am trying to collect all the engine gaskets for that time I fit the head and cams.

So Far I have:

12193-NLR-A31 .15 Gasket
12191-NLR-A31 .20 Gasket
12551-NLR-A31 .55 Gasket

I need the following if you have any lying around:

12192-NLR-A31 .30 gasket
12252-NLR-A31 .65 gasket
12253-NLR-A31 .70 gasket
12254-NLR-A31 .75 gasket

If you do have any of these surplus please get in touch 

I am also in need of a set of Inlet Inner Springs P/N 14752-MFL-R10 x 8 and Hose P/N 19502-MFL-R10

2017 HRC CBR1000RR parts list

Here is a HRC parts list for the 2017 onwards fireblade:

17215-NLS-000-JP FUNNEL AIR 1 CBR1000RR SP1/2 17> 1 17216-NLS-000-JP FUNNEL AIR 2 CBR1000RR SP1/2 17> 1 17217-NLS-000-JP FUNNEL AIR 3 CBR1000RR SP1/2 17> 1 17218-NLS-000-JP FUNNEL AIR 4 CBR1000RR SP1/2 17> 1 90102-NLS-000-JP SCREW, TAPPING CBR1000RR SP1/2 17> 1
00X32-NLS-000-JP KIT MANUEL (ENG) CBR1000RR SP1/2 17> 1 36140-NLR-B00-JP PULSER ASSY, CAM 1 90012-NLS-000-JP BOLT, FLANGE SH. CBR1000RR SP1/2 17> 2 90040-NLS-000-JP BOLT COMP. CBR1000RR SP1/2 17> 4 90050-NLS-000-JP BOLT COMP. CBR1000RR SP1/2 17> 1 90060-NLS-000-JP BOLT COMP. CBR1000RR SP1/2 17> 5 90232-NLS-000-JP NUT, FLANGE 9MM CBR1000RR SP1/2 17> 8 90234-NLS-000-JP NUT SPECIAL CAP CBR1000RR SP1/2 17> 2 90409-NLS-000-JP WASHER 6.4x11.5x1.6 CBR1000RR SP1/2 17> 2 4111-NLS-000-JP CAM SHAFT IN CBR1000RR SP1/2 17> 1 14211-NLS-000-JP CAM SHAFT EX. CBR1000RR SP1/2 17> 1 14151-NLS-000-JP CAP, CAMP SHAFT CBR1000RR S…

HRC Throttle bodies

I have been after one of these for a while and do not appear to appear very often.

If you compare both the kit version, they are near identical. HRC describe the changes as supporting engine braking. It appears though that this is only supported by the HRC kit ECU. 

They say:

Replace the throttle body with the racing kit. 

NOTE: • The 2008 CBR1000RR is equipped with IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). Fundamentally IACV controls the air volume under the low engine speed range. But the throttle body of the racing kit, IACV controls the air volume under all engine speed range to optimize the throttle control. This intends to reduce the engine brake feeling under high engine speed. • Please use the HRC kit PGM-FI/IGN unit for the throttle body of the racing kit.

Along the way, found that there are two versions of the Throttle Bodies:

16400-MFL-R10 (08-09 model) GQ23DA MARKINGS 
16400-MFL-R11 (10-14 model) GQ23EA MARKINGS

The standard throttle body usually has a marking GQ23AA